معادل فارسی برای عبارت "an earthy thwack of pure Lyon" در این جمله؟

Question

Now there’s a real Frenchman in Conran’s rebooted kitchen, two stars on the mantelpiece and fanciful diversions such as a bonsai tree bearing olive pissaladières that pop in the mouth, and teeny cornets of foie gras and mango. Bosi perfected his slightly Wonka-ish pairings (as well as the ultimate sausage roll) at Hibiscus – first in Ludlow, then Mayfair – and while his plates would make beautiful still lifes there’s real substance here, nowhere more so than the tripe-and-cuttlefish gratin, an earthy thwack of pure Lyon.

منظور از عبارات هایلایت شده چیه؟