While there is a hushed sense of awe about the sheer quality of Kyubey, the experience of eating lunch here is more precise than daunting. There is a maze of different rooms set over five floors, but the most revered customers are led to the first floor, with its simple blond-wood panelling and tatami seats. Here every morsel of fish – from the tiny braised squid to the sweet shrimp, so fresh it may twitch on your plate – is from that morning’s market. The seafood could include the alien-shaped torigai (Japanese cockle) or morasaki uni (purple urchin) and the chef will apply appropriate seasoning to each piece of sushi with a paintbrush. One note of caution: for all the respect you will be shown as a customer, you will be turfed out on the nose of 2pm. Precision in every corner.